Are you considering a Jessner peel?

Medium strength chemical peels create a controlled inflammation using one or more chemical agents on the epidermal layers and upper dermis which, over time, results in tissue regeneration.

Common ingredients currently used include one or a combination of glycolic acid (AHA), salicylic acid (BHA), lactic acid, resorcinol, solid carbon dioxide and trichloroacetic acid (otherwise known as TCA) an alpha hydroxy acid. All of these peel agents have been used for years by dermatologists and doctors and estheticians.

Prior to TCA’s use for removing tattoos it was known to provide acceptable results in reducing fine wrinkles, treating acne scars, freckles, birthmarks, discolorations, stretch marks and mild-to-moderate photo aging as well as removing corns. For some time now TCA tattoo removal peel strengths up to 50% seem to have been the preferred strength for these conditions.

At this strength and higher, however, it has been known to cause certain complications including scarring. This has caused this strength to become less popular. 35% TCA formulas have been found to produce equally positive results without the associated side-effects.

The Jessner peel product, in combination with a TCA tattoo peel, is a unique form of chemical peel for lightening areas of hyper pigmentation, treating aged, sun-damaged skin and removing tattoos.

Jessner peel solutions (which contain salicylic acid, lactic acid and rescorcinol) are applied prior to using TCA and have been found to be effective in first removing the topmost layers of skin (epidermal layers) which then allows a deeper penetration of the TCA tattoo peel and a more evenly applied, uniform peeling effect. This two-step combination has proven to be as effective as using only a strong TCA peel solution alone – with a greater margin of safety.

The three main ingredients in Jessner’s Chemical Peel:

Salicylic acid – Is a Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA) known to be an excellent deep skin cleanser. It is well known to destroy bacteria which will then allow the skin to breathe better. It is known to produce less irritation than the alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid (AHA).

Lactic acid – Is another beta hydroxy acid (BHA) with an intensity that is slightly less than glycolic acid. So it is an effective, although less intense, agent for chemical peels. It is considered affective for those with sensitive skin who are too sensitive to use glycolic acid (AHA) chemical peels. It is commonly used for its ability to eliminate germs and other toxins. It is known to effectively shed dead cells and protect the pH level of your skin.

Resorcinol – Is an antiseptic that has been used for years to treat a wide variety of skin conditions. It is also effective at relieving itching and preventing infection allowing for a faster recovery time.

For even application of the solution, the area must first be cleaned thoroughly, Septisol® is very effective at doing this by removing skin oils. Additionally, the tattooed area can be cleansed with an antiseptic, vegetable-oil based, dye and perfume free glycerin soap.

This step needs to be followed by thorough rinsing and drying. Next, an acetone (a solvent used as a sanitary cleaner) can be used to debride (remove) dead contaminated tissue and other foreign material. The purpose of this is to remove anything on the skin surface that could cause infection and slow healing.

Jessner’s peel solution can then be applied with a q-tip or gauze. The solution should be applied evenly using one to two coats until an even, light frosting is observed. The frosting achieved with Jessner chemical peel solution is much lighter than that produced by TCA and the patient is usually only mildly uncomfortable, feeling only heat. The capillaries will often dilate during this process causing a redness known as erythema.

Next, the TCA tattoo removal acid is applied using one to four q-tip applicators using lighter or heavier amounts, as required. The q-tip applicators are useful in modulating the amount of chemical solution applied.
Within 30 seconds to 2 minutes the usual white frosting will begin to appear over the tattooed area. If the frosting is uneven or not appearing in some areas, the TCA tattoo peel solution should be reapplied, carefully.

A tattoo peel solution should remain on the tattooed area for about 3 – 4 minutes to ensure the frosting has maximized. Frostings are done to three levels:

Level I acid frosting results in redness with a blotchy frosting (whitening). This effect is common with light chemical peels.

Level II is seen as white frosting with redness showing through the tattooed area.

Level III frosting occurs when the peel travels through the stratum corneum (outer layer of the epidermis and through the lower layers into the papillary dermis. It appears as a solid white frosting with little or no redness showing through. These more aggressive peels should be avoided for most cases of tattoo removal as they travel deeply into the dermal layers and can cause scarring and other complications.

Medium-depth tattoo peels should use no more than level II frostings, this is especially true on sensitive skin.

Careful feathering of the solution at the rim of the tattoo will help conceal the line between the acid-peeled and non-peeled areas. Saline compresses can be applied to dilute the solution. A highly diluted .25% ethanoic acid mixture (one tbsp of vinegar to one pint of water) will assist the skin to heal. Additionally, a mild emollient cream to soften and soothe the skin should now be used.

For the first day, users are instructed to soak the tattoo four times daily with the diluted ethanoic acid compress. A mild emollient cream should also be applied to the tattooed area(s) after these soaks. After 24 hours, you can start showering again using a mild cleanser – glycerin and vegetable oil cleansers are recommended. The reddening (erythema) can intensify as the shedding of the outer layers of skin continues.

This cycle normally completes within 4-5 days. Healing is typically completed within 7 to 10 days. Most often at the end of the first week the bright red has turned to pink and may give the appearance of a sunburn. This may continue for 2 – 3 weeks but the area can be covered over using cosmetics.

To review, success with this technique for tattoo removal is really dependent on these three steps:

1) Thoroughly degrease the area to be peeled.
2) Apply the Jessner’s peel solution.
3) Apply a TCA tattoo peel product.

The amount of each of these three agents will determine the intensity and therefore the end result of this tattoo chemical peeling technique. The three variables may also be adjusted depending on your skin type and the area of the body that the tattoo is on.

Finally here are some considerations to keep in mind if you are considering using a Jessner peel with a TCA chemical peel:

• Those who have used Accutane in the past 12 month’s should not use Jessner’s Peel.
• If you are currently lactating or pregnant this product should be avoided.
• If you have a history of scarring easily, this sort of tattoo peel product should be avoided.
• Avoid using Jessner’s peel on any areas where a hair removal product has been used within the past 3 days.
• Jessner’s peel should not be applied to sunburned skin
• Avoid direct sunlight for at least one week.
• Avoid repeating Jessner peels too often, it is usually recommended to wait at least 4 weeks before repeating the peeling process, however be sure to follow all instructions in the kit carefully.

Jessner’s Peel often sells for approximately $89.99 for a 1oz bottle, so it is not inexpensive. However, when compared to other tattoo removal techniques that can cost well into the hundreds and even thousands, this product may be a great option for you to remove an unwanted tattoo. Try it and you will see the results for yourself. They are fast and marketed as superior to any other over the counter lotions, removal creams and serums available.

There are good reasons why practitioners charge so much for these Jessner chemical peel procedures. The good news is you can now do it yourself in your own home quickly and without any visits to day spas, clinics etc. The Jessner peel kit and others come with detailed instructions that will include usage precautions, preparation guidelines, after peel care and healing process procedures.